Rainforest Revelry and Relaxation in Puerto Rico

For even the most creative kids, playing “Dora and Diego” within the confines of a New York City apartment can eventually wear a bit thin. So imagine my children’s glee when we whisked them away to the St. Regis Bahia Beach in Puerto Rico, where they could engage in their own rainforest adventures – be it playfully chasing iguanas, ambling through a pristine preserve, or paddling with parents down the shimmering Espíritu Santo River.

The resort, which sits on 483 lush acres, marks the St. Regis brand’s first foray into the Caribbean, and is also the region’s first Certified Gold Audubon Signature Sanctuary. In other words, it’s as luxurious as it is eco-friendly. The on-site nursery, for example, grows much of the produce for the resort’s restaurants, which includes Fern, by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. A marine biologist and an ecologist are on staff to give tours of the wild; before or after the trek, a butler can attend to your family’s every whim.

When they weren’t feeding the koi or searching for the coquettish coqui tree frogs, our kids were frolicking in the pool pavilion, which is clearly a centerpiece of the resort. The complex boasts three large pools facing the ocean; a nearby beach hut provides water toys aplenty. The kiddie area has a gently graded entry and a wading basin, which our 2-year-old explored with delight and confidence. 

The Iguana Kids Club is another highlight. Set back in a clearing through a thicket of trees (and accessible primarily by golf cart), the club offers supervised arts and crafts, story time, games and movies. Kids aged 5-12 can participate in the drop-off camp (a 6-hour day, including lunch, is $80 per child); families can also arrange for a sitter for children of all ages through the concierge.

In keeping with the St. Regis renown, resort dining is ambrosial, but it’s also accessible. Youngsters can enjoy scrumptious kid-friendly cuisine for $35 a day (just be sure to sign up for the SPG Kids Pass when you arrive). The aforementioned Fern, in the main Plantation House, is the site of breakfast and elegant evening meals, but our favorite spots were Seagrapes, which offered casual poolside fare, and Molasses -- which, despite its moniker, features speedy service, as well as flavorful local cuisine, and, it must be said, incredibly patient and affable waiters -- all with a glorious ocean view. In addition, the St. Regis arranges festive early-evening rites, such as Champagne sabering, a S’mores feast, and a weekly kids’ PJ party.

Accommodations are in low-slung buildings flanked by almond and coconut trees -- a nod to the resort’s former life (it was once a plantation). The rooms are handsomely appointed, with Pratesi linens and marble baths (our kids were fascinated by the TV integrated into the bathroom mirror).

For parent pampering, the 10,000-square foot Rémède Spa is a haven, boasting seven treatment rooms, hot and cold plunge pools, and talented staff. If, on the other hand, you thirst for a little “tee time”, the spectacular golf course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., is well above par.

For sybarites, there are two miles of oceanfront to enjoy. While we have seen more beautiful beaches (if your heart is set on sugar-white sands, you may be disappointed), we found it to be perfectly pleasant.

The property is also 15 minutes away from the majestic El Yunque National Forest; the concierge will happily arrange for a tour, or book nearby activities such as scuba diving, ziplining, or nighttime boating on the Fajardo Bioluminescent Bay.

The St. Regis Bahia Beach was the perfect family getaway, offering unsurpassed service, relaxed elegance, and delectable dining. What made it truly unforgettable, though, was the spirited fun and natural beauty we experienced, and the many discoveries we made together – be it pedaling with the kids through a 7-mile nature trail (surrounded by rare birds and mangroves), or savoring a dish of mofongo. Dora would be proud.